04 Saturn Runs Fine Then Sputters Then Runs Fine Again

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ten-05-2016, 11:44 AM

3,279 posts, read four,873,630 times Reputation: 6149

I take an old 2002 Saturn SL1 unmarried OHC that's on its last legs as it is in my view. Recently information technology has started sputtering very badly once it'southward warm, every bit in after about v-ix minutes or and then. When it's cold, it runs fine every bit always, merely in one case cold, it sputters very badly to the point that you have to flooring it to get it to practice much of anything; it can barely go xxx mph on mild "rolling" hills and you take to rev the RPMs up to well-nigh 3500-4000 with each gear, with it hesitant to go on to the adjacent gear at that point (all of those behaviors are much less prominent, if not downright non-existent, for almost 7-odd minutes when y'all first become going in the morning). One shop wanted $240 or so simply to change the spark plugs, the wires and supplant the fuel filter and stated "from at that place we can see what else may need to be done." They did show me where the fuel filter seemed to exist rather clogged up, merely and so wouldn't that cause information technology to run roughly even when cold? (Nosotros did get out the car parked for about 3 months but then put it back in service nigh a month ago, but it ran fine and we've apparently long since burned off the old gasoline.) I simply took the car back home without having the shop do anything, but I did supplant the spark plugs and wires myself (aye, I fabricated sure the spark plugs had the gap prepare, at 0.40) and I likewise replaced the MAP sensor every bit someone suggested. However, the behavior has continued. The store did run diagnostic codes, they simply came back with "EKG" or something like that. If this can be fixed simply past something such as the fuel filter or such, OK, only I don't desire it to be that I replace the fuel filter, the fuel pump, the oxygen sensor, the catalytic converter (steps I've heard of others doing in this instance) and so it Yet runs similar this. I become the sense, though, at to the lowest degree from the 1st shop (I found another I intend to take it to), that you lot have to go through much of all of that or close to information technology to basically do a "process of elimination" to figure out the problem. Isn't it possible for them to simply pinpoint the exact cause and quote an estimate? I mean, with the car's "on its final legs" status, if it was something such as $100 or then for a fuel filter, that'south fine, but if it involves spending like $700-1000 on 4 different things just to get in that location via "procedure of emptying," information technology'southward not worth it in that case. Tips? Concluding edited by shyguylh; 10-05-2016 at xi:54 AM..

10-05-2016, 01:08 PM

xsboost Location: Chicago 306 posts, read 312,643 times Reputation: 397

Quote: Originally Posted by shyguylh The shop did run diagnostic codes, they simply came dorsum with "EKG" or something like that. EGR? A bad EGR valve could cause the symptoms you're seeing. Then could a vacuum leak or bad 02 sensor. I wouldn't let them replace parts willy nilly. If the check engine low-cal is on, get the codes existence thrown. If non, your best bet would probably be a Saturn specific car forum.

10-05-2016, 01:35 PM

BostonMike7 13,649 posts, read 16,131,199 times Reputation: 18328

Typically, when a vehicle is "common cold" it runs off set params inside the reckoner. In one case information technology warms up, it begins to take input from the various sensors and makes adjustments based off the info it gets. WHen a machine runs groovy common cold, and poorly when warmed upwards, it tells me there might exist an event with one of the sensors, or the EGR sensor which is closed when the car is warming upwardly. My showtime instinct is what codes is the car giving off. You suggested EGR? And so has that been cleaned or replaced? Because that would crusade some of the symptons you lot are seeing. Tin y'all go an bodily code number? IS the calorie-free on? If so drive by your local Autozone and ask them to pull the code number which is far more valueable than an capricious description like "O2 sensor" because I would then enquire "well, is it a lean code, or rich code?". The number is much more valuable info

ten-05-2016, 03:02 PM

M3 Mitch Location: Eastern Washington 15,995 posts, read 51,976,259 times Reputation: 16019

OP, if y'all are capable of doing it, modify the fuel filter at least, if your plugs are quondam, if the wires are original, alter them too. Typically these are DIY friendly tasks, requiring only a ratchet, extension, spark plug socket, and maybe a couple of screwdrivers. If the spark plugs have been in the head since the invention of dirt, they may be stuck, you desire to have them loose maybe a half or quarter plough, and then shoot some good penetrating oil like Kroil or Lead Blaster in next to the plugs, await at least a one-half-60 minutes, then pull them the rest of the way out. I like to put a little anti-seize compound on the plugs when installing. Catching upwards on deferred maintenance does make troubleshooting easier.

ten-05-2016, 04:03 PM

3,279 posts, read 4,873,630 times Reputation: 6149

Quote: Originally Posted by M3 Mitch OP, if you are capable of doing it, modify the fuel filter at to the lowest degree, if your plugs are old, if the wires are original, change them likewise. Typically these are DIY friendly tasks, requiring only a ratchet, extension, spark plug socket, and maybe a couple of screwdrivers. If the spark plugs have been in the caput since the invention of dirt, they may be stuck, you desire to take them loose maybe a half or quarter plough, and then shoot some good penetrating oil like Kroil or Lead Blaster in next to the plugs, wait at least a half-hour, then pull them the rest of the style out. I similar to put a petty anti-seize compound on the plugs when installing. Catching up on deferred maintenance does make troubleshooting easier. I have changed the spark plugs and wiring. I haven't changed the fuel filter, the ane website recommended draining the fuel tank first whereas the repair shop said such wasn't necessary.

x-05-2016, 04:xiii PM

unit731 8,108 posts, read 8,794,907 times Reputation: 8452

EGR, EGR sensor, MAF, IAC, vacuum leak.

10-06-2016, 12:42 PM

BostonMike7 thirteen,649 posts, read xvi,131,199 times Reputation: 18328

What's the mileage on the vehicle? And has routine maintainence been performed based on manufactuer's schedule?

ten-06-2016, 05:25 PM

ukrkoz 16,640 posts, read 22,657,617 times Reputation: 18761

On my books, runs good cold/bad hot means air leak somewhere. Microcrack or gap somewhere. As it all warms up, metal expands, gap opens, and hither ya get. Practise simple test. get brake cleaner spray. Outset and warm up engine. Then requite it shots of brake cleaner, going in sections effectually the engine top section. When engine stalls, that's where air leak is.

10-07-2016, 01:55 PM

3,279 posts, read 4,873,630 times Reputation: 6149

I also replaced fuel filter today and although information technology's a bit better it'due south however acting upwardly somewhat. I've taken information technology to some other place for a diagnostic.

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